Somewhere between late November and early March, the Ganga at Varanasi picks up an unexpected set of visitors: thousands of migratory gulls, arriving from as far as Siberia and Central Asia to spend the winter on the river.
Who Shows Up
The most common sight is the black-headed gull, along with brown-headed gulls and the occasional bar-headed goose passing through. They gather in dense flocks on the water, especially near the ghats where boatmen and visitors often feed them.
When to See Them
They're most visible from December through February, and most active in the early morning and late afternoon, when the light is soft and the river traffic is lighter.
Best Spots
Look for them drifting near Assi Ghat, Dashashwamedh Ghat, and along the stretch near the Ganga's floating jetties, where they tend to cluster in large numbers. A slow boat ride through these areas is the best way to get close without disturbing them.
A Quiet Side of Varanasi
Amid the noise and color of the ghats, the gulls add a strangely peaceful counterpoint — a reminder that this ancient river has always been a crossing point, for pilgrims and travelers of every kind, including the feathered ones.