Varanasi is one of the great food cities of North India, and much of the best eating happens standing up, plate in hand, at a stall that has been run by the same family for generations. Here is where to start.
Kachori Sabzi
A breakfast staple across the old city, this is a deep fried lentil kachori served with a spiced potato curry. Kashi Chat Bhandar and the stalls around Thatheri Bazaar are reliable places to try it fresh off the pan.
Banarasi Chaat
Varanasi has its own distinct style of chaat, sharper and spicier than what you find in Delhi or Mumbai. Look for tamatar chaat, a tomato based version unique to the city, at the chaat stalls near Godowlia crossing.
Malaiyo
A winter only dessert, malaiyo is a light, saffron scented foam made from milk that has been churned overnight in the cold morning air. It appears on stalls only from November to February, so time your trip accordingly if you want to try it.
Thandai
A cold, spiced milk drink made with almonds, fennel, and rose, thandai is closely associated with the city and its shops, particularly around Chowk and Kachori Gali, some of which have been pouring the same recipe for over a century.
Baati Chokha
A heartier, more rustic dish, baati chokha pairs baked wheat dumplings with a smoky mashed vegetable mix, usually served with a generous spoon of ghee. It is easy to find at small local eateries away from the main tourist stretch.
Banarasi Paan
No food guide to Varanasi is complete without paan. The city is famous for it, and a betel leaf wrapped with areca nut, spices, and sweeteners makes for a fitting way to end a meal, even if you only try it once.
A Few Tips
Stick to stalls with a steady stream of local customers, since high turnover usually means fresher ingredients. Bottled water is a safer bet than tap water, and it is worth pacing yourself. Rivera Palace's front desk is always happy to point guests toward the stalls that are currently the busiest and best.